Every time I travel through India with a driver, I can't help but notice that lane markings seem to be more of a suggestion—if not pure decoration. There may be three lanes on paper, but in reality, five vehicles squeeze in side by side, with scooters and pedestrians weaving through the gaps. Yes, even on highways. Apparently, traffic police only enforce rules in cities, and even there, interventions are mostly limited to speeding violations—or so my driver to Agra, Rohid, told me.
But today, I'm not heading to Agra. Instead, I’m escaping the chaos of Delhi and making my way north—to Rishikesh, the world's yoga capital.
Yoga wasn’t born in Bali, despite its current popularity among tourists and instructors, nor in Thailand, famous for its yoga teacher training courses. Its roots go back thousands of years right here in India.
In this article, I’ll share my experience at a yoga school in Rishikesh, explore local traditions, and highlight must-visit places in and around the city.
This is the second part of my series on traveling through Northern India.
Part one: Delhi and the Golden Triangle—available here.
Where Did Yoga Come From?
Yoga has its roots in Hinduism and dates back at least 5,000 years to ancient India. The word "yoga" comes from the Sanskrit term yuj, meaning "union" or "connection." Originally, yoga was a spiritual and philosophical practice designed to unite the body, mind, and spirit, ultimately leading to liberation (moksha) and inner harmony. Over time, it evolved into various schools and styles, incorporating physical postures (asanas), breath control (pranayama), and meditation to support both spiritual and physical growth. Ancient texts like the Upanishads and the Bhagavad Gita form the foundation of yoga, explaining its philosophy and purpose. Today, modern yoga blends physical and spiritual elements, but its core goal of achieving inner balance and unity remains unchanged.
Bali became a global yoga and wellness hotspot largely due to the popularity of the 2010 film Eat Pray Love, in which Julia Roberts' character embarks on a journey of self-discovery, spending time in Bali in search of inner peace. The movie sparked a wave of spiritual tourism to the island, cementing its reputation as a destination for yoga, meditation, and holistic healing.
However, while Balinese culture is deeply spiritual—rich with Hindu rituals, offerings, and ceremonies—it wasn’t historically a yoga hub. Unlike India, where yoga has been practiced for millennia, Bali only saw the rise of yoga schools, wellness retreats, and holistic centers in the late 20th century, driven by global trends rather than traditional Balinese customs.
Yes, Bali is now a mecca for those seeking yoga, meditation, detox retreats, and wellness experiences, but its association with yoga is more of a modern development than an ancient tradition.
Yoga and Ayurveda in India
India offers a different experience when it comes to yoga. While you won’t find as many luxury retreats as in Bali, the practice here feels more authentic. In addition to yoga, India is also home to Ayurveda—a traditional system of medicine that dates back thousands of years and is considered one of the world’s oldest healing sciences.
The term Ayurveda comes from the Sanskrit words ayur (life) and veda (knowledge), meaning "the knowledge of life." Ayurveda takes a holistic approach to health, focusing on the balance between body, mind, and spirit. It incorporates natural remedies, diet, meditation, and lifestyle practices to restore harmony and well-being. In India, yoga and Ayurveda often go hand in hand, forming a deep-rooted tradition of physical, mental, and spiritual wellness.
Ayurveda uses natural healing methods such as diet, herbs, massages, body cleansing (panchakarma), yoga, meditation, and breathing techniques to support both physical and mental health. It has been practiced in India for centuries as a way to maintain good health, prevent illness, and treat various ailments. Its influence on modern alternative and holistic medicine is invaluable, offering a comprehensive approach to well-being that integrates mind, body, and spirit.
From Delhi to Rishikesh by car
The drive from Delhi to Rishikesh is a lot different than the one to Agra. The closer you get to the "Yoga capital," the more tourist-focused infrastructure you find: frequent bars, western-style restrooms, hotels, and restaurants. Small towns also start popping up, places that didn't exist between larger cities before.
At one of the gas stations, I had to leave the car while it was being fueled. A young boy approached me:
– What's your name? Where are you from? How old are you?
– 31 - I answered, adding with a smile - Old.
– Yeah - he nodded seriously, before adding: – Do you have 1 euro?
We finally reached Rishikesh. I stayed in Tapovan, a quieter part of the city. After settling in, I went straight out to grab a bite and see where I had landed. Right off the bat, it’s clear how different this place is from Delhi, Agra, and the rest of northern India – it's the first place where I feel safe and not constantly approached by people. We’ll talk about safety in a bit, but in general, the people here are so different from those in Delhi. They’re probably used to the foreign tourists who come to the yoga schools in the area. I saw things here that would be unimaginable in Delhi – girls walking around in tank tops and leggings. After a week in a completely different world, I had forgotten that this was even possible!
Of course, these clothes are worn mainly by Western tourists practicing yoga. A true yogi’s attire looks a little different. It’s meant to be loose and comfortable, not expensive and fashionable. No one here buys leggings for 60 EUR. It’s all about comfort, not about looking a certain way. In this tradition, it’s not about outward appearance but inner harmony and focus on the practice.
But I digress.
I went out with the intention of grabbing something to eat, buying water, and maybe some sandals or flip-flops (yes, again – the ones I had fell apart when I was walking up the hill with my backpack from the taxi to my accommodation in Rishikesh).
And now, here I am, sitting in a Beatles-themed café, eating a sandwich, listening to their music, and gazing at the Ganges. It's beautiful. For the first time during this trip, I feel like everything is just right and that I’ve finally found the place that’s meant for me. This is exactly what I needed.
Yoga School
In Rishikesh, I stayed at Yoga Vidya Mandiram, where I signed up for a three-day yoga course. Let me say this upfront—if you ever get the chance, go for at least a week. Three days leave you wanting so much more, and it’s simply not enough to build solid habits. Of course, even a week is still short, but it’s definitely better. Many people stay for a month or longer, and that kind of time really allows you to learn, develop a routine, and absorb the teachings on a deeper level.
After my initial three days, I extended my stay by another two—because that’s all the time I had left. I just wanted to make the most of it. The energy in this place was incredible, especially among the people from all over the world with whom I shared practices, meals, and fascinating conversations.
We began with a fire ceremony—a traditional ritual at the start of yoga courses, meant to open the mind and purify the spirit before new experiences. The leader of the ceremony chanted mantras while pouring ghee (clarified butter) into the fire, and at key moments in the prayer, we each offered herbs and flowers into the flames as a symbolic act of devotion.
The yoga school where I stayed was simple and humble, yet filled with authenticity. This was no luxury retreat with pools and spas, but rather a space focused on true yoga practice, inner growth, and living in alignment with core spiritual principles. The rooms were basic and functional—there was nothing missing, yet nothing excessive either. Everything was kept minimalistic to ensure that nothing distracted from the main purpose: deepening the practice of yoga.
The dining hall was communal, and the meals were simple, healthy, and prepared in accordance with Ayurvedic principles. One of the key elements of life at this school was karma yoga—the practice of helping others with daily tasks such as cleaning and maintaining order in the space. All course participants washed their own dishes, contributed to keeping the school clean, and ensured its smooth functioning. This fostered a sense of community and brought satisfaction from performing simple yet meaningful tasks that aligned with the principles of yoga.
The daily routine at the yoga school was quite demanding, allowing for complete immersion in the practice. Each day started early to make the most of the morning energy, when the mind was fresh and ready to learn.
Daily routine:
5:00 – Wake-up | The day began at 5:00 AM, a time to prepare for practice. This was a moment to reset both body and mind, getting ready for a day dedicated to self-work. |
6:15 – Mantra Chanting | The first practice of the morning was mantra chanting, the rhythmic recitation of sacred sounds. This helped to clear the mind, bring a sense of peace and focus, and, when combined with breathwork, synchronize the body with the spiritual dimension. |
6:30 – Pranajama | Next came pranayama, a set of breathing techniques designed to regulate life energy within the body. These exercises helped in controlling breath, increasing vitality, and preparing for the more physically demanding practices ahead. |
7:30 – Hatha Yoga | The core of the morning session was Hatha Yoga, focusing on asanas (postures) that stretch and strengthen the body. This practice emphasized the connection between breath and movement, fostering harmony between the body and mind. |
9:00 – Breakfast | Finally, breakfast—a later but nourishing meal. After nearly four hours of practice, the body was ready for a light, natural meal that replenished energy for the rest of the day. |
10:00 – Yoga History / Yoga Philosophy | After breakfast, it was time for a lecture session. We delved into the history and philosophy of yoga, exploring its foundational principles and spiritual aspects. This was an opportunity to deepen our intellectual understanding of yoga beyond its physical practice. |
13:00 – Lunch | After lunch, there was free time for personal rest or self-study. |
16:30 – Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga | In the afternoon, we practiced Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga, a more dynamic and physically demanding style that synchronized movement with breath. This session required full concentration and energy. |
18:00 – Relaxation & Meditation | After the intense session, the evening was dedicated to relaxation and meditation—a time to unwind, calm the mind, and integrate the day’s experiences. |
19:00 – Dinner | Dinner was lighter and prepared according to sattvic principles, meaning it was designed to cleanse the body and provide only the essential nutrients. |
21:00 – Sleep | After such an intense schedule, bedtime at 9:00 PM was a crucial part of the routine. There were no late-night outings, and even if they were allowed, nobody would have had the energy for them! |
The entire routine was designed to maintain harmony between the body, mind, and spirit, guiding participants into a state of complete presence and balance.
Food and Customs in Rishikesh
At the yoga school, only sattvic cuisine was served. This dietary principle is one of the foundations of Ayurvedic tradition and yogic philosophy. According to this approach, food is not only meant to nourish the body but also to support mental, spiritual, and physical balance. The word sattvic comes from the Sanskrit term sattva, meaning harmony, purity, and balance. The key aspect of sattvic cooking is that the food should be full of life energy (prana), easily digestible, clean, and nutritious.
In Rishikesh, as well as in other spiritually significant places in India, there are strict rules designed to maintain mental and spiritual purity. The consumption of meat and alcohol is prohibited, as in many philosophical systems—such as Hinduism, Buddhism, and yoga—diet plays a crucial role in achieving harmony between the body, mind, and spirit. Specifically, consuming meat and alcohol is believed to cloud the mind, leading to aggression, desire, lack of mindfulness, and difficulty in maintaining a calm and clear awareness.
However, in more tourist-oriented areas of Rishikesh, as in other Indian cities, some restaurants do serve meat and alcohol, particularly those catering to foreign visitors. I also asked my guide about this, and in reality, many locals in Rishikesh, despite following religious and spiritual principles in their daily lives, do not always strictly adhere to them in private settings—so, yes, sometimes they do eat chicken at home.
I really liked the sign hanging in the dining hall of my yoga school:
"Foods that are too bitter, sour, salty, very hot, pungent, dry, and full of chilies are dear to those in the mode of passion. Such foods cause pain, grief, and disease."
This quote perfectly aligns with Ayurvedic philosophy and the principles of a sattvic diet. It’s quite a contrast to many places in India, where food is often heavily spiced and extremely hot. Here, everything tastes natural, allowing you to fully enjoy the flavors and nutrients without excessive heat or oil. This approach contributes to a feeling of lightness while also promoting health and longevity.
"Eating well is a form of self-respect." – This mindset is encouraged everywhere here, and similar signs can be found in many restaurants.
And my personal favorite:
"Life is a combination of magic and food."
Anyone who knows me will understand why this quote resonated so deeply with me. I spotted it on the hotel menu at Hill Top Swiss Cottage, where I stayed for my last two nights.
Massages with the Spirit of Ayurveda
What could you do during your free time in the afternoon? I made sure to enjoy Ayurvedic massages every day.
My number one choice was Deep Tissue Massage – intense and similar to the Western deep tissue massage. It focused on relieving muscle tension and improving circulation. However, many other massage techniques in Ayurveda are completely different from what we’re used to in Europe.
Another massage I tried was Abhyanga – a full-body oil massage. It uses warm oil applied from the feet upward. The goal is to improve circulation, remove toxins, and deeply relax the body. During the treatment, the massage therapist uses specific movements to restore the body’s energetic balance. Depending on the need, the oil can be enriched with herbs to help with detox and skin hydration.
Another unique treatment is Shirodhara – a procedure in which warm oil is poured onto the forehead, around the area of the “third eye.” About three liters of oil are poured over 30 minutes! The effect? Deep relaxation, reduced stress, improved sleep, and soothing for the nervous system. Traditionally, sesame oil is used, which also nourishes the skin.
I also tried Udvartana – a body massage performed with dry herbs, which helps with detoxification and cellulite reduction. The herbs were applied in powder form and vigorously massaged into the skin, which stimulated circulation and supported the flow of energy in the body.
These treatments were not only a way to unwind after intense practices but also a deeper immersion into the Ayurvedic philosophy of caring for the body and mind.
I will miss these massages the most.
There are many places offering massages throughout Tapovan, but I chose one near my yoga school – perfect for a quick massage between practices. I usually try different places, but here, after the first massage, I knew I didn’t need to look any further. And of course, no premium spa – just a simple room, with a fan instead of air conditioning, which sometimes stopped working during power outages.
Sacred Cows
“These cows, they lay down on the road, like they really know they are sacred.”
As I was walking back from the city to the hotel, these words from my friend from Sri Lanka, whom I met during the yoga course, were running through my mind. I was strolling in complete relaxation, after a pleasant day – a massage and dinner, still feeling the oils on my skin. Everything was peaceful.
And suddenly – two cows in front of me, growling at each other, clearly pissed off. In an instant, one of them turns around and charges… straight at me. In a split second, everyone around me starts running for cover – shop owners barricade the entrances, people hide inside. I start running too.
I’m running after an Indian woman, I think we both realized half a second too late. Just in time, we dart into a gate and hide behind a wall. Phew. The cow stayed on the main road. We come out, both in shock and out of breath.
The locals are in shock too. They say it was close. I felt it too. Everything happened so fast, but in that moment, it hit me how easily one can lose control... and end up in a tragic situation. Fortunately, this time, we made it.
But I will never walk past a “sacred” cow so calmly again.
Rishikesh – Exploring the Surroundings – What to Do Besides Yoga?
fter completing my yoga course, feeling totally different on the inside than when I first arrived in Rishikesh, I decided it was time to explore the city.
I found a full-day tour on GetYourGuide: “See the Best of Rishikesh on a Scooter.” Sounds good, right?
Naturally, after my little run-in with the cow, I wasn’t feeling so confident, especially with the thought of navigating the chaos of traffic on a scooter. But I wasn’t going to let the cow win and cancel my plans. I hoped it was just a string of unfortunate events, not some bad karma trying to take me down on this trip. I decided to shake off the past incident with a nice day, traveling like the locals. So, with some initial nerves but plenty of determination, I set off.
The guide barely spoke any English, but at least he drove safely (by their standards). Of course, I didn’t get a helmet—just the one for the driver, which he only wore for the busiest roads.
We started our day with a visit to a temple about 30 km outside of Rishikesh. The ride along the cliffside offered incredible views. On one side, lush wild greenery with monkeys jumping around and birds perched on the trees; on the other, steep cliffs leading down to the Ganges below. The views were breathtaking, and the wind in my hair (since I didn’t have a helmet) added to the charm of the whole trip. It was a real treat.
The temple we visited is called Neelkanth Mahadev, one of the most important in this region and India. It’s nestled in the mountains, surrounded by forests and hills. Before entering the temple, we had to take off our shoes, which is a common practice in sacred places. Unfortunately, the path wasn’t the cleanest, and I stepped in something unpleasant more than once. Yikes.
This temple is dedicated to Shiva, one of the main deities in Hinduism, part of the Trimurti along with Brahma and Vishnu. Shiva is associated with destruction and transformation, which doesn’t just mean destruction but also renewal and creating space for new beginnings. According to myth, this is the place where Shiva drank poison during the war between gods and demons (Samudra Manthan) to save the world. So, this location holds significant spiritual importance and is visited by many pilgrims from across India.
After the temple, we headed to a beautiful waterfall, which required a half-hour trek—a nice change after the 60 km scooter ride. The climb was pleasant, with stunning nature all around. We finally reached the waterfall, and its roar and cool mist offered relief from the hot afternoon sun.
After the waterfall, we visited another temple, full of peace and harmony. Right next to it, still iNext, we visited another temple, peaceful and serene, and just nearby was an ashram famous for hosting the Beatles. In the 1960s, the band came here to practice meditation and explore spirituality. The Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram became well-known after the Beatles, who were fascinated by transcendental meditation, spent months here. Their visit had a massive impact on culture, music, and the popularity of meditation in the West.
At the ashram today, you can see murals of the Beatles and exhibitions with photos from that time. While it holds great historical value, the place is in pretty poor condition, falling into disrepair, with some buildings destroyed. Many visitors consider it a sad sight, given the huge global influence it had.
Rishikesh gained international fame partly because of the Beatles. After they wrote some of their biggest hits here, other global stars also came to learn transcendental meditation, making Rishikesh a hub for spiritual seekers. Some of their most iconic songs, like “Dear Prudence,” “Bungalow Bill,” and “Blackbird,” were created during this period. The Beatles’ visit became one of the most iconic moments in 20th-century music history, further boosting the popularity of meditation worldwide.
The ashram also has 84 small meditation huts, which correspond to the 84 yoga postures, a number rich in symbolic meaning. It was believed that each posture impacted different aspects of spiritual and physical development, and meditating here was thought to lead to enlightenment and inner peace.
Despite the current state of the ashram, it remains a major tourist attraction. Entrance costs 1200 rupees, which may go toward renovation efforts, though there are no official updates on any plans to restore the place yet.
The tour definitely exceeded my expectations. The heat and the constant scooter ride wore me out. By the afternoon, I told the guide I couldn’t go on, so he took me back to the hotel for a two-hour rest before the evening Ganga Aarti. Old age? Well, I am over 30 now!
Two hours later, my guide came to pick me up, and we headed out for the evening Ganga Aarti. You’re probably wondering what that is?
Ganga Aarti is a daily ritual ceremony held by the Ganges River, especially popular in Rishikesh. The ceremony takes place at three different locations around the city. It’s a truly unique experience, a mix of spiritual ritual, meditation, and communal prayer. Full of symbolism, the purpose of Ganga Aarti is to honor the Ganges River, considered sacred in Hinduism, as well as the deities. During the ceremony, priests and participants sing mantras, hold burning lamps, and offer flowers that float away on the water.
It’s definitely a unique sight, with fire dancing in the air and the smell of incense filling the space. Many people join the ceremony to show gratitude, pray for health, happiness, or peace in the world. While it’s a deeply spiritual experience, it also creates a sense of community and calm. At first, it might be hard to fully understand, especially if you're unfamiliar with the tradition, but seeing the river filled with flowers and the smoke rising from the incense brings a peaceful, reflective atmosphere that invites meditation.
On the way back, I bought two bottles of water for 60 rupees, which was probably the cheapest thing I’ve bought in India so far.
Tomorrow, I have a flight from Dehradun (Rishikesh doesn’t have an airport) to Delhi. And then... it’s time to go home! I think this is the first time in my life that I’m actually looking forward to going back.
If you're interested in any of the places mentioned in the article, or if you're planning a trip to this part of India and have any questions, feel free to reach out to me! :)
*The Fire Ceremony, also known as Homa or Yajna, is a traditional Hindu practice aimed at cleansing the mind and body while opening the heart to new experiences. It's often performed at the beginning of yoga courses to initiate the process of spiritual purification.
During the fire ceremony, a priest or ceremony leader chants mantras designed to connect with spiritual energies. Fire is seen as a sacred element, with its flames acting as a medium to bridge the material and spiritual worlds. Traditionally, offerings such as ghee (clarified butter) are thrown into the fire to purify and consecrate the spirit, but other materials like spices, herbs, seeds, incense, and flowers can also be used. Throughout the ceremony, participants offer small portions of these ingredients to the fire as a gift and prayer for prosperity, peace, and harmony.
**Ahimsa- In Hindu tradition, particular attention is given to the concept of Ahimsa (non-violence), which applies not only to relationships with others but also to the world of animals. As such, avoiding meat is seen as a sign of respect for the lives of other beings. Moreover, in yoga tradition, a plant-based diet is believed to promote mental tranquility and improve meditation, which is crucial in the process of spiritual growth.
In Rishikesh, alcohol consumption is also prohibited for similar reasons—it is considered a substance that weakens the ability to concentrate, causes distraction, and disrupts inner harmony. In the context of yoga, drinking alcohol can interfere with the practice, which is based on full presence and mindfulness.
*** An Ashram is a place dedicated to spiritual development, meditation, and the study of yoga in Hindu tradition. It’s a space where people seeking a deeper understanding of themselves and the world can live simply, engage in spiritual practices, and gain knowledge of religion, philosophy, and practices like yoga, meditation, Ayurveda, and mantra chanting.
Ashrams are often located in secluded areas, away from the hustle and bustle of cities, to encourage quiet and reflection. They typically offer daily rituals such as prayers, meditations, mantra singing, yoga practices, as well as philosophical discussions and spiritual teachings. Ashram residents, usually called sadhakas, live according to specific guidelines, which include simplicity, working for the common good, and adhering to moral and spiritual principles.
Ashrams hold deep significance in Hindu tradition, aiming to support individuals on the path to spiritual awakening, inner harmony, and self-realization. Today, aside from their traditional religious aspect, ashrams have also become places where yoga and meditation are practiced in a broader, global context.
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