Peru is a land where the past and present intertwine into a mesmerizing whole. Here, the majestic Andes meet the lush Amazon rainforest, while the desert dunes of Atacama fade into the vast Pacific Ocean. It's a place where the legacy of the Inca civilization remains alive in everyday life, and colonial cities transport you back in time. In Peru, you can lose yourself in the vibrant chaos of colorful markets, bask in the silence of mountain peaks and canyons, uncover the mysteries of the Nazca Lines, or feel the pulse of life in the Amazon jungle.
And what did I do in Peru?
Just to name a few... I ate piranhas that I caught myself and spotted an anaconda in its natural habitat. I witnessed the meeting of two mighty rivers giving birth to the Amazon. I savored alpaca steak—right after admiring their charm. I camped in the heart of the Amazon jungle, searching for caimans at night from a small wooden canoe.
I walked through the legendary Machu Picchu after completing the entire Inca Trail, marveling at the grandeur of Inca civilization. I tried sandboarding—sliding down towering desert dunes. I drank coca tea and chewed coca leaves, immersing myself in local traditions. I flew over the enigmatic Nazca Lines, marveling at the geometric patterns and animal figures that have intrigued researchers for centuries.
I uncovered the secrets of Paracas, where people once modified the shape of children’s skulls by binding cloth around their heads. In Lima, I paid tribute to Ernest Malinowski, a renowned Polish engineer who made his mark in railway history. I reveled in the stark beauty of the Peruvian Atacama Desert. I feasted on ceviche and washed it down with the famous pisco sour (my fav drink since then).
I encountered sloths and parrots in the jungle and stumbled upon a black widow spider under a rock on the Inca Trail and a tarantula near my tent. I watched condors soar majestically over the Colca Canyon, their wingspans reaching up to three meters. I sailed on Lake Titicaca to visit the floating Uros Islands and wandered the streets of Cusco—the former capital of the Inca Empire, where history lingers in the air.
My favorite moments were captured in brief notes written during quiet interludes, whether waiting for transport or journeying between awe-inspiring destinations. It was in these reflective moments that Peru etched itself forever into my heart.
Lima
The Presbítero Maestro Cemetery, where Ernest Malinowski rests, is a place steeped in majesty and history. Its vast grounds are adorned with elaborate monuments, angel statues, and gravestones that are true works of art. Malinowski—a Polish engineer famed for building the world’s highest-altitude railway in the Andes—rests near Entrance 3, along the main avenue leading to the grand tomb of Peruvian presidents.
We visited on a day the cemetery was officially closed, yet we managed to gain entry and find Malinowski’s grave. The real challenge came later—how to leave? Every cemetery worker directed us to a different gate, insisting the one they guarded was locked for the day. After much wandering, one finally agreed to let us out.
When we reached the gate and ordered an Uber, the same worker—who had initially refused to let us exit—insisted we wait inside the cemetery walls. He explained it was "pericoloso"—dangerous—outside. Taking his advice, we stayed put until the Uber arrived, and only then did he open the gate.
Little did we realize how casually we had strolled nearly two kilometers from Lima’s main square to the cemetery, phones in hand, smiling and assuming central Lima would be safe.
Huacachina.
At first glance, Huacachina is a magical oasis tucked in the middle of the desert. In reality, it’s a tiny tourist town built around a picturesque lagoon, just minutes from Ica—the capital of the region. A quick three-minute walk will take you around the entire village. The main attractions? Small hostels, restaurants, and the towering dunes encircling the oasis.
Climbing to the top of the dunes is no small feat, but the views are worth every step. Once there, we hopped into a buggy—a dune buggy that felt like a rollercoaster. From the moment the engine roared to life, adrenaline surged through our veins. Our driver, an expert navigator of desert curves, tackled steep drops and climbs with fearless enthusiasm, evoking a scene straight out of Mad Max.
After the heart-pounding buggy ride, it was time for sandboarding—the desert’s answer to snowboarding. For the daring, standing on the board was an option, while beginners rode on their stomachs. Both versions were exhilarating, especially on steep descents. Some visitors even tried desert skiing—a unique twist for thrill-seekers.
The day ended with a breathtaking sunset. The golden light cascading over the dunes painted a surreal landscape. Back at the oasis, we climbed one of the highest dunes to take in the enchanting evening view. Twinkling lights surrounded by golden sands made Huacachina feel like a scene from a fairytale.
Though undeniably touristy, Huacachina has its charms. The blend of stunning natural beauty and thrilling activities made it easy to overlook its commercial side. It’s a destination that appeals to adventure seekers and lovers of the extraordinary alike.
Nazca.
Today, I visited the most unusual cemetery I’ve ever seen—and I say this as someone who loves exploring cemeteries. Chauchilla Cemetery is one of the most fascinating sites in the Nazca region, if not all of Peru. Imagine a desert landscape where, instead of gravestones and crosses, you find open graves exposing mummified remains of people who lived over a thousand years ago.
These remains are left nearly exposed to the elements, yet they’re remarkably preserved, thanks to the arid desert climate and the mummification techniques of the Nazca culture.
The Nazca people believed life was cyclical. They buried the deceased in a fetal position, symbolizing a return to the womb and the idea of rebirth. Bodies were meticulously prepared—organs were removed, bones broken to achieve the position, and remains rubbed with chili and other spices. This process, combined with the desert air, preserved the skin, hair, and even nails for over a millennium.
Today, only 12 well-preserved mummies remain from the original 400, as looters pillaged the site for centuries. Efforts to protect Chauchilla began in the 1990s, leading to partial reconstruction and the safeguarding of the remaining graves.
The cemetery’s atmosphere is surreal—white-yellow skulls and preserved bodies starkly contrast the desert's endless expanse. It’s a place that’s both awe-inspiring and slightly eerie. The quiet stillness, stark surroundings, and history so vividly on display make a visit to Chauchilla unforgettable.
It’s incredible to think that after over a thousand years, we can still glimpse the lives (and deaths) of those who once called this land home. If you’re in the Nazca region, Chauchilla is a must-see—though it’s certainly not for the faint-hearted.
Colca Canion.
The Colca Canyon is often described as one of the deepest canyons in the world—twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. Yet, what makes it truly magical is the combination of its breathtaking scenery, vibrant culture, and unique wildlife. This is where the mighty condors reign supreme, soaring effortlessly against a backdrop of jagged cliffs and verdant terraces that stretch as far as the eye can see.
Reaching the canyon involves a long journey through winding mountain roads, but every turn reveals another jaw-dropping view. Early morning is the best time to catch a glimpse of the Andean condors in flight. These magnificent birds, with wingspans up to three meters, glide gracefully on the canyon’s thermals, leaving onlookers in awe.
The hike into the canyon is both challenging and rewarding. Descending the steep trails, surrounded by terraced fields carved centuries ago by pre-Inca civilizations, you feel a deep connection to the land’s history. At the bottom of the canyon lies a tranquil oasis, where small lodges offer a place to rest before tackling the climb back up.
What struck me most about the Colca Canyon was not just its sheer natural beauty but the sense of timelessness it exudes. It’s a place where nature and culture harmoniously coexist, and every moment feels like a step back in time.
Inca Trail.
It’s 4:53 AM. We’re standing at the gate of the Inca Trail, waiting for the entrance to Machu Picchu to open. This is the fourth and final day of this incredible adventure. The trail, built approximately 600 years ago, only gained global recognition in 1911. For the local people, it was never a mystery, but the ruins we admire today didn’t leave much of an impression on them. Even the conquistadors who conquered the Incas in the 16th century paid little attention to this hidden mountain sanctuary. Some of the Incan ruins, like Wiñay Wayna, were only discovered during more detailed explorations of the trail in 1941.
As for the journey itself...
The first day was calm – breathtaking views of picturesque mountains and the last villages along the trail promised an unforgettable adventure. Day two tested us with two mountain passes, including the highest one at 4,215 meters above sea level – Dead Woman’s Pass. Day three took us into a completely different landscape – the Amazon jungle and cloud forest, where the lush vegetation mesmerized us, and the view of Wiñay Wayna took our breath away.
And now? We’re standing at the Sun Gate, just moments away from fulfilling a dream. What will I feel when I see Machu Picchu? I’m about to find out.
Machu Picchu needs no introduction—it’s one of the world’s most iconic landmarks, often described as a wonder of the world. But the journey to reach it, especially via the Inca Trail, is just as extraordinary as the destination itself.
Exploring Machu Picchu itself is an adventure. From the towering Huayna Picchu mountain to the Temple of the Sun, every corner tells a story of the Inca Empire’s brilliance. The precision of the stonework, the alignment with celestial events, and the sheer scale of the site leave you in awe.
For those short on time, reaching Machu Picchu by train is an option. However, hiking the Inca Trail offers an unparalleled sense of accomplishment and connection to the ancient world.
Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires. The capital of Argentina? Not exactly. It’s also the name of a small village in the Pacaya Samiria Nature Reserve in Peru, where life moves at a completely different pace than in its bustling, metropolitan counterpart. It’s home to 45 families – around 200 people, including many children. Their daily life is peaceful, simple, yet demanding.
The village has no shops, roads, or electricity. The nearest town is a three-hour boat ride away. For the residents, this means being self-sufficient in almost every way. For us, accustomed to having a convenience store just around the corner, it feels like a story from another world. Here, nature is both their lifeline and their greatest teacher – something they rely on entirely.
The tropical rainforest provides food, shelter, and medicine. But it’s the river that serves as the heart of life – the central axis upon which everything depends. The river provides water for washing, cooking, and irrigation, facilitates transport, and offers fish as the dietary staple. Its level dictates the rhythm of the seasons.
During the rainy season, the Pacaya River rises, flooding over 90% of the reserve. The areas we walked through are completely underwater then, as are most of the trekking trails. In the dry season, the water level drops so much that some spots become impassable by boat. High up in the trees, you can see marks left by the river in previous years – as high as seven meters above the ground.
Buenos Aires, however, is fortunate to be on higher ground. Isolated from the natural force that is both their salvation and their challenge, the villagers can live in relative safety. This isolation from civilization is like life on an island – in the middle of a continent, surrounded by wild nature. It’s in places like this, where humans coexist with nature, that we truly understand how much we owe to it – and how little it takes to find peace.
Amazon Jungle.
The Peruvian Amazon is a world apart—a lush, green expanse teeming with life. Here, the air buzzes with the sounds of insects and birds, the rivers teem with fish, and the trees stretch endlessly toward the sky.
August 19, 2021 – a day etched in my memory forever. That’s the day we saw an anaconda. And a moment later – the confluence of the two rivers that form the Amazon.
Five days without a shower, without washing our hair, wearing sweat-soaked clothes, and covered in mosquito and ant bites. Yet, we couldn’t stop smiling. That morning, Lorenzo, our local guide, spotted the anaconda. Hidden among the branches of a fallen tree, it moved almost imperceptibly. Lorenzo, a master of his craft, skillfully brought it out, even as it writhed and tried to escape. It was beautiful. Not enormous, as legends or movies might suggest, but rather a young one – about three meters long and around two years old. It wasn’t frightening, but it commanded admiration. Oh, did I say it was beautiful? I can’t emphasize that enough.
What else did we do in the jungle? Yesterday, we ate piranhas we caught ourselves. Yummy. Though, honestly, they were mostly bones with little meat. Our guides didn’t eat them, saying it’s more of a tourist thing, though online sources claim they’re a local delicacy. The infamous, fierce piranhas – there are so many of them in this river. We caught about six each. But swimming is safe – unless you’ve recently cut yourself shaving. In that case, better stay out of the water. And definitely don’t rinse any wounds in the river. A chunk of meat thrown in sees a frenzy of tiny piranhas in the blink of an eye.
We also built a shelter – well, we helped build one. To do so, we had to fell a massive palm tree. Sad for the palm, which had been peacefully growing there. Its leaves became the roof – very professional. The branches formed the structure, and thin vines served as rope for the walls and roof. We slept under this shelter, surrounded by nature. A fire was supposed to protect us, but despite the pile of wood, it went out after an hour. Only the sounds of nature kept us company. The sounds of the jungle at night are terrifying. They’re not welcoming at all. Perhaps it’s the jungle’s way of keeping intruders away – those who would exploit or destroy it. At night, the jungle feels more alive. Its power is palpable, its voice unmistakable, haunting even. Maybe it’s crying for help? Commanding us to leave? It certainly wants to remain wild and untamed. And I can’t blame it for that.
Final Thoughts on Peru Travel Plan
Peru is a country that stays with you long after you leave. Its landscapes are as diverse as its culture—each region offering a unique experience, from the snow-capped peaks of the Andes to the dense Amazon jungle, the desert dunes, and the vibrant coastal cities.
But beyond its natural wonders and historical treasures, what truly sets Peru apart is its people. Warm, welcoming, and deeply connected to their heritage, they are the heart of this incredible country.
Peru is not just a destination—it’s a journey into the soul of South America, a place that captivates, inspires, and leaves you longing to return. Interested to receive a Peru Travel Plan tailored to your needs and interests? Text me and I'll create that for you.
Comments